The Contested History of The Piña Colada
Words: Hannah Lemass
The Piña Colada. As synonymous with a tropical paradise as Hawaiian shirts, socks with sandals, and dodgy sunburns. This beauty was once the height of mixology sophistication but has since fallen out of fashion slightly. It has an air of boomer core, but anyone who has sampled this heavenly nectar of rum, coconut cream, and pineapple juice knows how truly special it is. There are a lot of bad (pine)apples out there doing the Piña dirty, mixing up bland batches of watered-down, sun cream-tasting sludge. But the real deal is unmatched in the realm of ultimate summer cocktails.
And behind every poolside babe enjoying this creamy delight is a juicy tale of disputes, rivalries, and controversies spanning decades. Well that may be a bit dramatic but it is a much disputed tale. So, sit back, relax, and let’s dive into the frothy, sweet waters of the Piña Colada’s wild history.
There are a few versions of the Piña Colada’s origin story. One thing that is not up for debate, however: this heavenly elixir was born on the sunny shores of Puerto Rico. And it still holds a special place in the hearts of locals and is regarded as a national icon. It is served at almost every bar and restaurant on the island and with great pride. But where it truly came from, is a bit of mixology mystery. Let’s get into the theories.
Pirate’s Tipple
First up, pirates! It’s thought that the heavenly trio of pineapple, coconut, and rum were readily available to seafarers Roberto Cofresí and Ramírez de Arellano, who whipped them up and served them to their crew for some refreshment. The swarthy, weather-beaten sea-dogs probably didn’t have little umbrellas, crazy straws, or fresh fruit garnishes, although that is pretty cute to imagine.
Ramón’s Restaurant Refreshment
If you wander through the vibrant tapestry of San Juan’s winding pathways, you may stumble upon a large, impressive plaque at number 104 San Francisco Street. This monument at the Barrachina Restaurant claims the origins of the Piña Colada. It identifies the restaurant as the spot where Ramón Portas Mingot invented the famed drink in 1963 by combining a glass of pineapple juice, coconut cream, condensed milk, white rum, and ice. Whether or not they were the first the restaurant is still serving up delicious Piña Coladas and they are the Kings of paella in the city so they have plenty to be proud of.
The Other Ramón
Finally, the most enduring and widely accepted version of events asserts that the Piña Colada was invented by another Ramón—bartender Ramón “Monchito” Marrero — at the Caribe Hilton in 1954. It’s said he was tasked with creating a new welcome drink to serve to guests arriving at the hotel. Inspired, he mixed rum, coconut cream, and pineapple juice, thus ushering the Piña Colada into the cocktail zeitgeist.
There is another branch to the lore of the Caribe Hilton Piña Colada. According to this story, a Spanish employee at the hotel, Ricardo Garcia, was tasked with serving guests a signature welcome cocktail called the Coco Loco. This drink was a mix of coconut juice, rum, and cream of coconut served in a fresh sliced coconut. One day in 1954, he found himself without coconuts to serve the drink in. Legend has it that he cut off the top of one of the plentiful pineapples he had on hand and used that to serve the mixture instead. He noted the flavour added by pineapple and experimented with straining the fruit. Hence the name Piña Colada, which literally translates to “strained pineapple.”
Regardless of its murky origin, to this day, people come from all over to try the ‘OG’ Piña Colada on offer here, with the hotel slinging out a jaw-dropping average of over 1,000 per week.
The Piña Colada means a lot to Puerto Rico, but its impact stretches far beyond the island. The significance of this creamy little drink resonates around the globe. It has cemented its place not just on the menus of beach bars but also in pop culture. Numerous films, TV shows, and, of course, songs have referenced the Piña Colada. Only the best drinks have songs written about them, and the Piña Colada is one of them. Few things capture and encapsulate the aspirational beach-going, carefree lifestyle in the same way.
The Piña Colada has always been and will always be that girl. So carve out a pineapple and raise it up to the perfect tropical drink as she celebrates her 70th year.
