The 10 Best Newcomers of 2023
This year, diving into the food biz is like a tightrope walking over a pit of hungry lions. Some places that could’ve been award magnets had to close shop within a year. Others had to ditch dreams of new venues thanks to looming fifty-grand electricity bills. Since the recession hit, it’s the most challenging year for fresh faces in the food sector.
It’s not all doom and gloom. Some folks stared austerity in the face and said, “Hold my beer.” Others made triumphant comebacks during the industry’s triple threat of crises, unfazed and flipping a defiant finger at the chaos.
Luckily, we’ve unboxed the freshest feasts, stripped off the stickers, and recycled the packaging—just for your convenience. Below, you’ll find our top ten newcomers of 2023.
Afanti
Dilana Halmurat and her daughters are bringing the heat with hand-pulled noodles and Uyghur delights. Dumplings, clay-oven samsas, and lamb kebabs encrusted with cumin—this is authentic Chinese at prices that would be the saviour of us all.
Lottie’s
Under the collaborative ownership of Domini Kemp (known for Itsa Bagel, museum cafes, and the restaurant in BTs) and Brian Montague (of The Winding Stair group), Lottie’s is a real treat in Rathmines. It landed on the scene in March with a flourish, embracing a mid-century, millennial-pink, modern aesthetic. But it has made its name on being both affordable and unafraid to experiment with bold flavours.
Everyone has been talking about their octopus dish, which features soft, barely charred tentacles that are tender and easily cut with a knife. Adding gochujang, samphire, and crispy potato makes it a must-try dish.
Brighton Road
A perfect neighbourhood spot, the latest incarnation of Bistro One wows Foxrock with precision-cooked sole, roast duck, and beef. It’s giving real ‘I know a place’ energy and would draw a crowd to Foxrock on a Saturday night, which is no mean feat.
Bar Pez
This is the sister, not twins, of the small but mighty Fish Shop. Simplicity is key at this Barcelonian-inspired joint. With a menu scribbled on a blackboard, Bar Pez serves up dishes straight from a Spanish bar, accompanied by an exciting wine list. Lobster toast, fried fish with aioli, and a vibe that screams little treat-level expert.
Kari
Kari spices up the Dublin food scene with Southern Indian dishes featuring Irish ingredients. Forget the usual curry suspects; Kari offers kale and samphire pakoras, crisp duck samosas, and more, delivering quality and flair. There’s not a ton of joints left in this corner of Dublin that won’t drain your wallet but will still stuff you silly. Believe it or not, you can roll out of Kasi with a satisfied belly for a forty-quid—enough to feed a duo like champs. With a menu that’s broader than your cousin’s conspiracy theories and a laid-back atmosphere perfect for both scarfing down snacks or chillin’ through long lunches, Kasi’s got the goods to own its primo downtown spot and cater to all your cravings.
Daruma
Osaka’s flavours hit Dublin with Daruma, a cosy spot that was one of the must-tries of the year. They’ve got all the good stuff – small plates, sushi, and a robatayaki grill. Forget the usual Japanese spots; these folks have a completely different take on Japanese food than the rest of the town combined. It’s much more regional focused on the flavours that dominate in Osaka. Daily sushi specials, loads of veggie options – they’ve got it all. They’re the sake masters. Sip it straight up or dive into their low-alcohol sake cocktails. Pro tip: If you’re ever caught off guard without a dinner reservation, just strut on in. They’re great for the aul walk-ins.
Fairmental
It’s like a sweet shop but instead of sweets, it’s fermented bits. Giant jars of scobies, hot sauces and other live creations sit in the refrigerated shelves waiting to be tossed into any number of Fairmental’s dishes. This one’s for the health queens, for those who want their guts to be as squeaky clean as a freshly-bleached sink, but still eat deliciously. The friendly team serves up dynamic dishes with heart, and you can even join their fermentation workshops. No vinegar whiff, just pure joy.
Matsukawa
It has been one of Dublin’s most-talked-about openers this year. Bringing a fine dining Japanese omakase experience to Dublin for the first time ever. Omakase is the Japanese term for chef’s selection which is basically Japanese for tasting menu. Owner Yu Uchida’s goal with the restaurant was to bring an authentic Japanese dining experience that is also high quality to Dublin, the likes of which has never been seen before here. Sat on the corner of Queen Street in Smithfield among bars like Fidelity, Token and Frank Ryan’s, it certainly stands out, with its authentic Japanese interior design and small premises. It may seem like a daunting experience for those who aren’t familiar with this style of eating, but it’ll be an experience you won’t soon forget.
Cellar 22
Dublin is in her wine era. Not just natty wine any more. We want the whole experience and Cellar 22 knows how to make it count. With an eclectic wine list, and what has been revered in hushed tones as quite possibly the best handmade charcuterie available in Dublin atm, and an all-day dining menu, this spot is perfect for a long-overdue catchup with an old pal. Especially one who is into decanting a good wine while they spill the tea.
La Gordita
Ten years after Tapas de Lola, La Gordita storms onto the scene with Spanish bodega-style dining. The menu is flabbergastingly phenomenal. It would make even the most adamant heretic awestruck at its diligent prowess. There isn’t a dish on the menu to avoid or to disappoint, and what’s great is that it’s tapas style, so you can just keep ordering as you go. The menu changes with the seasons, too, so there will always be something a little different if you want to go back again and again and again. They also do a surprisingly cracking martini.
Order: Pescado del día (2 sharing) €65.00
Have you been yet? Well, you should.
