10 Female Innovators Leading Dublin’s Food Scene
Words: Shamim de Brún
Images: Instagram
Words: Shamim de Brún
Images: Instagram
International Women’s Day is upon us, and while some may celebrate with free sweet treats for the first few customers and slogan tees, the true meaning behind this day of female empowerment is support. If you have a platform that can showcase women, this is the day to do it.
Of course, you should be doing it all year, but the truth is that preferential bias still exists towards male— and men-owned businesses. In fact, when writing this, I was not only struck with wonder for the women doing the bits but also gaping at how far we still have left to go. Of all the restaurants in Dublin, very few are owned by women; that’s doubly true when it comes to pubs.
Yes, we have come a long way from the women’s entrance and wall of snugs, but we still live in a world where, even with research time and help from Twitter, finding female publicans was a job of work. So, I appreciate how far we have come, but I also acknowledge that we still have miles to go before achieving equality.
For us, International Women’s Day is about supporting other women—women who are moving and shaking in our industry. So here are ten women who inspire us at Char.
The Critic
First up, Vritti Bansal, the profoundly knowledgeable food and travel journalist who is turning culinary criticism on its head. Vritti, hailing from New Delhi but is currently making waves in Dublin, has penned pieces for renowned publications like Time Out Delhi, India Today Group Digital, The Irish Times, and National Geographic Traveller India. Her knack for storytelling is undeniable. Notably, Vritti clinched a Food Writing Award in 2023 for her outstanding contributions to the Irish Times.
This year, she’s embarking on a tantalizing new venture: Turned Tables, a series of restaurant reviews with a twist that’s as delicious as it is daring. Vritti plans to serve up two reviews for each establishment she visits. The first review will adopt a unique perspective, exploring what would happen if “brown” food writers critiqued “white” cuisine with the same zest as their counterparts. The second review, dubbed “The Actual Review,” will provide a more conventional take. Having read the first dose myself, I can say that Vritti’s approaching this project with the seriousness it deserves, refusing to sugarcoat her observations or dilute her message. And with both reviews dropping simultaneously on different platforms, readers are in for a double dose of enlightenment.
The Wine Wonder Woman
Ngozi Elobuike is the mastermind behind Hi-Spirits Wine Club, Dublin’s premier Black-led wine club. The club is a celebration of diversity and culture through curated wine experiences.
Born from Ngozi’s vision of inclusivity and community, Hi-Spirits Wine Club offers exclusive tastings that showcase premium global wines while honouring the rich tapestry of Black heritage. Each event is an immersive journey through viticulture and history. Ngozi’s love affair with wine began in the vineyards of California’s Lodi region, where she was captivated by the beauty and complexity of winemaking. Her passion deepened in London, where she worked as a kitchen porter at Vagabond, a renowned wine chain. There, she discovered her calling and embarked on a journey of discovery that would eventually lead her to Dublin.
While studying for her master’s degree in race, migration, and decolonial studies at UCD, Ngozi noticed a glaring absence of Black representation in the city’s wine scene. Undeterred, she set out to change the status quo, founding Hi-Spirits Wine Club in June 2023. Despite her busy schedule as a consultant at EY in Dublin, Ngozi remains committed to growing Hi-Spirits into a phenomenon. In Ngozi Elobuike, Dublin has found a passionate advocate for diversity, inclusion, and the transformative power of wine. One thing is certain: the future of Hi-Spirits Wine Club—and the world of wine itself—is in very capable hands.
The Chocolatier Extraordinaire
Step aside, Willy Wonka, there’s a new chocolate wizard in town, and her name is Tara Gartlan. With a dash of creativity and a sprinkle of gluten-free magic, Tara has transformed the Irish chocolate scene into a whimsical wonderland with her hand-crafted chocolate business www.taragartlan.com. Her confections are something I would sacrifice my firstborn child for.
Formerly a senior pastry chef at renowned Michelin-starred establishments like The Greenhouse and Chapter One by Mickael Viljanen, Tara’s journey to chocolatier extraordinaire began with a diagnosis of coeliac disease during her pastry chef studies. Undeterred by this challenge, Tara used her culinary talents and baking prowess to adapt recipes, creating a delectable range of gluten-free treats.
Based at her family home in Carrickmacross, Co Monaghan, Tara’s chocolate business is a labour of love, with a production kitchen lovingly crafted by her and her father, a skilled carpenter. Her dedication to quality shines through in every aspect of her work, from sourcing top-quality ingredients to perfecting her signature creations like the passion fruit caramel and milk chocolate bonbon. My favourite is the Yuzu one, but the Vanilla one would make you rethink writing off vanilla as plain.
The Taco Titan
As Lily Ramierez-Foran fondly puts it, “I’m the Mexican cook in Ireland,” a title that perfectly encapsulates her unique journey and vibrant passion for authentic food.
Lily’s tale begins on a study trip to Japan, where she found herself amidst a sea of students from around the globe. It was there, in the midst of food-culture shock, that she crossed paths with Alan, the Irish love of her life, amidst the bustling atmosphere of a local eatery. Fast forward through the years, and Lily’s adventurous spirit led her to make Ireland her home, eventually tying the knot with Alan in Mexico, sealing their love story with a touch of international flair.
For the past 15 years, Lily has channelled her homesickness for Mexican flavours into a labour of love: her blog, her book Tacos from Blasta Books, and her shop, Picado Mexican. Through her cooking, Lily shares recipes and a piece of her heritage, offering a taste of real Mexican cuisine beyond burritos and fajitas. If you’ve never had a chance to eat at her supper club, it is an experience I really think everyone should have.
The Visionary
Victory Nwabu-Ekeoma is the mastermind behind Bia! Magazine, a celebration of immigrant voices in Ireland’s food scene. Inspired by late-night binges of Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown, Victory decided to stir the pot and start a conversation about how immigrants and migrants are spicing things up in the Irish food scene.
Armed with nothing but a dream and some funding from her local council, Victory unleashed Bia!, a 100-page mag filled to the brim with stories of chefs, food biz bosses, and home cooks who are flipping the script on traditional Irish fare. From curry houses to taco trucks, Victory’s on a mission to showcase how food connects people to their roots and brings a taste of home to their new stomping grounds.
Originally just a passion project, Bia! blew up bigger than a microwave burrito on high. Now, Victory’s gearing up to drop a second issue this month. Victory’s juggling all of this while clocking in hours at an NGO fighting for reproductive health rights worldwide.
The Michelin Maven
Gráinne O’Keefe is the battered sausage-loving woman behind Mae, a Dublin 4 hotspot that’s such a hot ticket you have to book weeks in advance. Formerly the head honcho at Clanbrassil House, Gráinne’s now the chef-owner at Mae, a nod to her late grandmother.
Now, if you had told Gráinne back in the day that she’d be running her own restaurant, she probably would’ve laughed in your face. Growing up, her family’s idea of dining out was cracking open a cookbook or tuning into Hell’s Kitchen for some culinary inspiration. But fast-forward through culinary school and countless hours slaving away in the kitchen, and boom—Mae was born.
Gráinne is also the mastermind behind Bujo, a stalwart on the Dublin burger scene. It’s well known among the gluten-challenged community as the best GF Bun on the scene, which is no mean feat. Gráinne took her talents beyond the kitchen and onto the pages of the Irish Times Magazine last year. Gráinne’s all about keeping it real – no fancy schmancy stuff here. She served simple, tasty recipes that even the kitchen-challenged among us can whip up without breaking a sweat.
Gráinne is unfailingly generous with her space, letting Bahay, The Rock Bakery, and others use her kitchen for pop-ups. Her food gets better every time I try it, and I will be betting on her getting her Michelin star in the future. So grab a rezzy at Mae if you can and get in there so you can say you got in before the inspectors.
The Booze Hound
Who says women can’t hold their own in the booze biz? Certainly not Jules Mahon, the ultimate multitasker and all-around industry maven shaking things up at Michael’s, Little Mike’s, and Big Mike’s. Her career is veni vidi vici in practice because she conquers all.
Before she was ruling the roost at Michael’s empire, Jules was making waves as a wine consultant and sales manager extraordinaire. From Dalcassian Wines to Indulgeme.ie, she’s been there, done that, and rocked it. Jules has passion in spades. Her love affair with the wine biz started when she was running TheTaste.ie, where she enjoyed sipping her way through countless tastings and dinners. Naturally, she decided to take her obsession to the next level by diving headfirst into WSET certification.
With her newfound expertise, Jules dove into building her network, jet-setting around the globe on wine trips and making friends on social media. Just Drinks named her one of the most influential drinks influencers in the world. She and her partner Erica are a joy to follow online because they genuinely have the best time just hanging out and having a few drinks. And Jules did all this while raising her three children.
Head out to Big Mike’s and grab a drink off her and let her show you how to have a good time!
The Maverick
Alex O’Neill is half the force behind Bahay – a food-truck-pop-up-lifestyle-brand that’s as unique as she is. As half of Bahay, Alex brings her fearless spirit and boundless creativity to the table, constantly reinventing the genre and pushing boundaries.
This year kicked off with a bang for Alex, as she and her partner Richie showcased their signature battered Longanisa Sausage on Channel 4, proving they’re a duo to be reckoned with in the culinary world. Alex has also been making waves with her writing. From thought-provoking essays in Scoop to mouthwatering prose in Masarap, Alex’s keen observational voice and brutally honest style will surely leave a lasting impression.
And let’s not forget her role as a digital marketer and GM, where she brings her strategic savvy and creative flair to the table. The Tenth Man featured her as one of their 20 for 2024, and has been dipping her toe into a little cheeky content creation. So keep an eye out for Alex O’Neill because wherever she goes, greatness follows.
The Wine Warrior
When it comes to wine, Sinéad Smyth is leading the charge for women everywhere. Anyone who has ever met her knows she is a kind soul with a good heart and head on her shoulders. Armed with a WSET Level 3 certification, a Spanish Wine Specialist Diploma, and a Cheese Academy Level 1 certification, she’s a force to be reckoned with in the wine world. But her expertise doesn’t stop there – she’s also the chairperson of Wine Spirit Women, a dynamic organization empowering women in the drinks trade through education and mentorship.
Sinéad was named Ambassador of Wine Shop Lanzarote this week, charged with bringing a taste of the Canary Islands to Ireland and Northern Ireland. With a background in culinary arts and an MSc in Insight and Innovation, Sinéad brings a unique perspective to the wine industry. Her thesis on sustainability in winemaking reflects her commitment to environmental responsibility, a value she continues to champion in her work.
As one of the Irish Times’ 50 people to watch in 2024, Sinéad’s star is rising. But amidst all her achievements, she remains grounded, embracing the “wine in Rome” mentality wherever she goes. One thing’s for sure – Sinéad Smyth is a name to remember in the world of wine!
The Fusion Queen
Step into the vibrant world of Ruby Tuesday’s Soul Food and meet Ruby, the woman behind this beloved Dublin eatery. With roots in both Ghana and the Caribbean, Ruby’s culinary journey is a colourful blend of flavours and cultures that warms the cockles on the coldest heart.
Inspired by a lack of authentic Caribbean cuisine in local restaurants, Ruby took matters into her own hands, setting up her own stand at the Mantua festival to showcase real, soulful dishes. From her famous jerk chicken wings to hearty oxtail stew and curried goat, Ruby’s menu is a tribute to Afro-Caribbean staples, elevated with her own unique touch.
Dublin has embraced Ruby and her flavoursome creations, and she’s returned the love by sharing her passion for good food with the city. If you’ve never tried it, you need to change that. Plus, Guinness is pretty good with it.
As we celebrate International Women’s Day, let’s raise a toast to the girlies, the ladies, the galz, the women, and the females who make Dublin what it is and are building its literal future. From chocolatiers to chefs, wine warriors to critics, these women are rewriting the rules and leaving their mark on the landscape. So here’s to strong women: may we know them, may we drink with them, and may we eat like them!
