Words: Hannah Lemass
Photography: George Voronov
Words: Hannah Lemass
Photography: George Voronov
Dublin’s newest pizza purveyor, Doom Slice, has made its debut to a great reception. Doom’s arrival had the team here at Char HQ come to the realisation that we are truly in the golden age of pizza by the slice in this fair city. So we decided to make a pilgrimage to the holy trinity of pizza shops to pay our respects. We sampled the Roman style slice at Mani, the New York style at Bambino and of course, the Detroit style at Doom Slice. So scroll on to find out the differences between them, and see what makes each of them so special.
The Roman slice has a few distinct characteristics. The most obvious at first glance is its rectangular shape. The dough itself is also unique. The long fermentation process gives it a light airy texture, filled with bubbles. It’s almost like a thin focaccia but has a delightful crispiness and serious crunch.
Roman pizza shops are also known to be a bit more experimental with toppings than their Neapolitan counterparts. And that tradition is reflected at Mani, with offerings such as the potato and the carbonara slice.
The menu offers a great selection of non-pizza options too which is something Bambino and Doom don’t have. In fact, you could even argue that their sandwiches and fritti are the real stars here with their fried lasagne is the talk of the town. You can even grab a cannoli for dessert. Who can say no to a little treat?
Will it burn a hole in your pizza pocket?
In terms of value for money, Mani is the more spenny option, with a slice setting you back between €6.50 and €8.50. But they are hearty and filling. Besides, you can save money elsewhere by adding an Aperol spritz for €9 Sunday-Wednesday! That’s girl math 101.
Who is Mani for?
A Mani slice is for the foodies. Those who care about the quality of ingredients and the aesthetics of the dish. It’s also for people who just want a cute pic for the Gram! Decent value with an excellent variety of slices and other menu options, the only downside is a lack of seating. A visit to Mani is about you and your pals spilling tea, and sipping spritzs. Ideally while soaking up the unparalleled vibes of a sun-drenched Drury Street.
Aesthetic: 10/10
Taste: 8.5/10
Menu: 9/10
Value: 8/10
Seating: 5/10
This underground hidden gem (note: sarcasm) specialises in New York-style slices. Thin and crispy, these are designed for portability. They are intended to be folded and eaten on the move by busy New Yorkers rushing to catch a subway or flash the portal.
The pizza at Bambino’s has all the elements of a classic New York slice minus the one-dollar price tag (more on that later). The crust has just the right ratio of crispiness to chewiness and the toppings are simple but extremely fresh and flavourful. Bambino also adds their own flair to their menu. Breaking away from traditional options with creative offerings such as the vegan sausage and their exciting, ever changing specials.
Like Mani, Bambino is let down by the lack of seating. It also doesn’t offer other options besides pizza. However, it makes up for it with good value, excellent quality ingredients, and bold flavours.
Will it burn a hole in your pizza pocket?
It seems to have a reputation for being expensive but actually, with slices starting at €4.25 and maxing out at €6.50, it’s pretty good value. The slices are not as filling as Mani or Doom’s but you can get two slices with a drink for €13 which is sure to fill up at a reasonable cost. You can even upgrade to a beer or wine for an extra €2.
Who is Bambino For?
Bambino is for everyone. Foodies, picky eaters, locals, tourists, students, anybody. It is the comfort spot. You are willing to queue for ages in the rain when a craving hits because nothing else will satisfy. And frankly, it makes you feel cool to be there. You may just be a struggling artist in Dublin but for a short time, while you knock back that slice, you feel like you are a struggling artist in New York City baby!
Aesthetic: 9/10
Taste: 9.5/10
Menu: 8/10
Value: 8.5/10
Seating: 4/10
Finally, Dublin has a Detroit style pizza spot! These pies are known for their distinctive square shape and deep dish crust. It’s baked in deep well oiled pans which gives it a crispy, almost caramelised crust all around the edge. While the layers of sauce, cheese and toppings are placed right up to the perimeter ensuring each bite is packed with flavour.
Doom’s menu offers an incredibly exciting variety of toppings. From carnitas with a chipotle marinara to goat’s cheese with a cab sauv glaze, there is plenty to catch your eye. Of course, you can still get some of the classic Motor City red tops here too if you want to keep it simple. And trust us the pancetta pineapple pizza here will convert even the greatest ‘pineapple on pizza hater’. Pizza is the only offering here, but the toppings are so generous and creative that you won’t be bored.
Will it burn a hole in your pizza pocket?
The slices are very good value for how substantial they are at €5 and €6 a pop. And you can pick up a pint in Pawn Shop to go with it. Beer and pizza, name a better duo. I’ll wait.
Who is Doom Slice for?
Doom is for the cool kids. If Bambino and Mani are too mainstream for you, this is your new go- to spot. It’s literally a hole in the wall in an alley, it doesn’t get more rock and roll than that. This is where to come when you want a reasonably priced meal with a few beers. Here you’re night out and pizza fix is a one-stop (Pawn) Shop. The fact that it is a part of a bar, where you can stay and chill with a rake of pints is something the other spots can’t give you. There’s tonnes of indoor seating which makes it perfect for all weathers.
Aesthetic: 9/10
Taste: 9/10
Menu: 8/10
Value: 9/10
Seating: 10
On this pizza crawl we learned that the Dublin Pizza is pooping off so fiercely that within a 500m radius you can experience three distinct varieties of pizza by the slice. They each had characteristics that make them special in their own way. Any one of them is a home run. When it comes to deciding which to choose it really just depends on your mood, and maybe the weather. You can also do what we did and eat them all back to back, but I must warn you, it’s a tall order.
Elsewhere on Char: Char’s Ultimate Food Guide: Pizza Edition