Words: Shamim de Brún
Images: Instagram & Google Photos
Words: Shamim de Brún
Images: Instagram & Google Photos
The breakfast roll has become a staple of Irish culture along with the greats like coddle, potatoes and a good creamy pint of Arthur Guinness’s best.
Breakfast rolls are mythical things invented by ancient druids who roamed the hills of Ireland trying to tempt people away from their saintly cornflakes. Which is to say we’ve no hard data on who the genius behind this phenom is, but we will prostrate ourselves in their homage. They are creatures of the wilderness so like the spice bag, they refuse to photograph aesthetically. But we are living in a post-aesthetics world, so fugg it.
The breakfast roll is the ultimate beacon of the Celtic Tiger. In those days, it didn’t just satisfy hunger; it became a national fuggin’ dish. It was the go-to fuel for the legendary “Breakfast Roll Man,” who epitomized the lifestyle of a sub-contractor deep in the construction game. Till the bubble burst and the CFR came to take its place. These days, the craze may have worn off and we’ve come a long way from Pat Short’s Jumbo Breakfast Roll song, but the breakfast bap remains a testament to Irish ingenuity.
Few things are as tempting as a breakfast roll after a heavy night out. But why would we willingly give our money and daily calorie allowance to a shitester when we could eat one of these infinitely better breakfast sandwiches instead?
This one is a bit posh and a bit modern, but my goodness it’s a knockout. At Mad Yolks, breakfast is an art form. Their classic ‘Mad Yolk’ features scrambled eggs, fresh chilli, chives, caramelized onion, smoked applewood cheddar, rocket, and sriracha mayo on toasted brioche. For the adventurous, the ‘Bad Yolk’ boasts fried eggs, a black and white pudding patty, streaky bacon, and beef tomato.
For the Mrs Reid’s team, the cafe is a neighbourly haven thanks in part to their chonky breakfast roll. The roll, densely packed with peppery sausages, fried eggs, rashers, homemade relish with caramelised onion and a creamy white pudding, is a tribute to the owner’s grandmother. Locally-sourced ingredients from neighbouring butchers and Catherine’s Bakery on Meath Street make Mrs Reid’s a true blue beautiful breakfast roll worth hightailing it to Dublin 8 for.
A trip to Ger’s Deli on a Sunday morning is a right of passage. A pilgrimage spot for breakfast rollers, it always has a queue out the door. This family-run deli is a cult classic for those seeking a hangover cure or simply a quality breakfast roll. What sets Ger’s breakfast rolls apart is their white pudding, spread out in a pile and generously layered onto the rolls. It would make you drool just remembering it.
The Kingfisher Restaurant is slept on in the world of breakfast rolls. But no longer. We will not stand for its omission. It’s a feast that sticks to the basics, serving up a proper breakfast sambo that comes with real, chipper chips. It could bring warring nations together over its hearty goodness. Plus their tea is actually proper good.
This is our hands-down winner. This forty-year-old brotherly business even convinced our breakfast sambo sceptic, Sian Conway, that the breakfast roll is an art form to be appreciated on her own terms. Everything is great here. There is a comradery in the queue. You can tick the boxes about what makes your perfect roll, and that’s the clincher. You don’t have to speak to anyone if you’re hanging, but still get exactly what you want. The team are sound. The vibes are immaculate. And of course, the food is next level. Declan and Donal’s is a winner, baby!
Elsewhere on Char: The Dublin 100 Guide