Are We Drinking Matcha into Extinction?
Are We Drinking Matcha into Extinction?
Words: Hannah Lemass
Images: Unsplash
Matcha has exploded in popularity over the past few years. Those rich, green sups with a slightly bitter, earthy kick have become way more than just a drink. Thanks to viral videos and the whole aesthetic vibe around it, matcha has turned into a cultural event as much as the ceremonial beverage it actually is.
All the buzz has put a lot of pressure on the people who grow and produce matcha. Along with other challenges, this has caused a supply shortage. Farmers, baristas, and matcha lovers everywhere are filled with anxiety of the squeeze. Many sources have reported dwindling stock and warned that prices are likely to continue rising.
A big part of this matcha craze comes from the post-COVID Japan tourism travel boom, which has shone a huge spotlight on Japanese culture and crucially, the cuisine. Social media is plastered with content full of treats like taiyaki, convenience store onigiri, and matcha goodies from cookies and ice cream to, of course, drinks. Tourists are stocking up on tins of matcha when they go, stripping the shelves of the green gold dust in many cases. This exposure has led many who haven’t travelled to Japan to seek out local alternatives, boosting businesses offering matcha-based treats and beverages worldwide.
So what does this growing demand mean for the farmers back in Japan?
The jump in matcha fanatics has definitely put more strain on farmers. But that’s not the only issue they’re dealing with. Most top-quality matcha comes from family-run farms where traditional, hands-on methods are still the norm. These farms aren’t heavily industrialised, so making matcha is a labour-heavy and time-consuming process especially when it comes to vital step of traditional stone milling. All this makes producing high-grade matcha to the volume and speed that is now required a very tall order.
It’s made all the harder since famous matcha-growing areas like Uji and Nishio have been feeling the effects of climate change as Japan is seeing record-breaking heat. Plus there aren’t as many tea farmers as there used to be. Rural Japan has an aging population, and fewer young people want to take over tea farming.
All of these factors mean cafés and shops here are finding it tough to get their hands on the best matcha.
It’s worth remembering that while we all deserve our drinkable treats, it’s important to make sure our matcha is responsibly sourced. Matcha isn’t just a trendy fad. It’s a centuries-old tradition, something sacred in Japan that’s usually reserved for special occasions or ceremonies. It’s best enjoyed with a bit of mindfulness and some respect.
We’re not likely to totally run out anytime soon but the people making the real good stuff and the people who make it into tasty drinks for you are having a hard time keeping up, so you might find yourself paying a bit more for your favourite drinks over the next while.
